What Are the Different Types of Gold Chain Links?

The chain you pick determines the entire feel of your jewelry. Here are the seven main link styles, what each one looks like, and when to wear them.

1. Cuban link (Miami cuban)

Flat, interlocking oval links that lie flush against each other. The chain reads heavy, ribbon-like, and dominates whatever it sits on.

• Origin: 1970s Miami, Cuban-American jewelers
• Look: flat, geometric, dense
• Durability: very high (links interlock mechanically)
• Best for: hip-hop, streetwear, daily wear, statement pieces

The most popular hip-hop chain, full stop. If you can only own one chain, this is usually it.

2. Tennis chain

Continuous line of stones held in tiny prong settings, linked end to end. The metal practically disappears.

• Origin: 1980s, named after Chris Evert's 1987 US Open mid-match incident
• Look: linear sparkle, refined, modern
• Durability: medium (prongs can bend)
• Best for: layering, dressed-up fits, anyone wanting shine without heft

Pairs especially well over button-downs and under collared shirts.

3. Rope chain

Twisted, braided pattern of multiple smaller links. The chain catches light from every angle because each twist creates a new facet.

• Origin: ancient Roman jewelry, modernized in 1970s hip-hop
• Look: textured, warm, vintage
• Durability: medium-high (depends on solid vs hollow construction)
• Best for: classic hip-hop, vintage-inspired fits, wearing without a pendant

The rope chain is the chain you can wear standalone without it looking unfinished.

4. Figaro chain

Alternating pattern of three small round links followed by one larger oval link. The pattern repeats: 3 small, 1 long, 3 small, 1 long.

• Origin: Italian, named after the Figaro pattern from operatic tradition
• Look: rhythmic, subtle, classic men's
• Durability: high
• Best for: men's daily wear, Italian-inspired fits, anyone wanting something less common than cuban

Figaro chains are the most-popular men's chain style outside of hip-hop. Different cultural register but worth knowing.

5. Byzantine chain

Complex, three-dimensional pattern of interlocked links creating a textured, woven appearance.

• Origin: Byzantine empire, hence the name
• Look: dense, textured, ornate
• Durability: very high (mechanically intricate)
• Best for: heritage-inspired pieces, gift jewelry, anyone wanting something visibly handcrafted

Byzantine is the most labor-intensive of these chains to manufacture. Solid gold byzantine chains carry premium pricing reflecting that craftsmanship.

6. Herringbone chain

Flat, slanted parallel links creating a smooth, mirror-like ribbon. The chain looks like polished metal tape.

• Origin: Egyptian and African jewelry traditions
• Look: smooth, reflective, sleek
• Durability: medium-low (kinks can permanently damage the chain)
• Best for: dressed-up fits, women's jewelry primarily, retro Y2K hip-hop revival

Herringbone had a major moment in late 1990s hip-hop and is back in rotation in 2024 onward.

7. Mariner (anchor) chain

Oval links each containing a horizontal bar across the middle, like miniature anchor chain or marine rope sections.

• Origin: maritime and nautical jewelry traditions
• Look: structural, masculine, distinctive
• Durability: high
• Best for: men's jewelry, nautical-inspired fits, design-forward picks

Mariner chains are the underdog of men's jewelry: distinctive enough to be memorable, traditional enough to read as "real chain", and not as ubiquitous as cuban.

Quick decision

If you want one chain to start: cuban link in 8 to 10mm, your gold of choice.

If you want layering versatility: cuban + tennis is the cleanest stack.

If you want something distinctive: rope chain in 8mm yellow gold, no pendant.

If you want something heritage: byzantine or figaro for that classic feel.

If you want a designer look: mariner or herringbone, depending on whether you want masculine or sleek.

Pro tip: when buying a chain other than cuban, prioritize finish quality. Tennis, rope, and mariner chains photograph their flaws more visibly than cuban links because their patterns repeat exactly. A bad finish on a cuban hides in the link pattern. A bad finish on tennis stands out.

Bottom line

Cuban for hip-hop default. Tennis for sparkle. Rope for vintage texture. Figaro for classic men's. Byzantine for heritage. Herringbone for sleek. Mariner for distinctive.

See SKRT collections by chain style: cuban link, tennis, rope chains.